Colours
of the North: Reġjun
Tramuntana, Malta’s Northern Region by Natalino Fenech. Reġjun Tramuntana, 2020. 216
pages.
What
do an archivist, baker, banner sewer, beekeeper, blacksmith, boxer, carpenter, cheesemaker,
chicken farmer, cobbler, conservationist, engraver, fish-trap weaver, goldsmith,
strawberry harvester, military historian, painter, potter, sacristan, sculptor,
and vintner have in common? They and many other artisans, clerics, and diplomats
serve as central characters in Natalino Fenech’s remarkable Colours of the
North, a tribute to twelve towns that populate the northern main island of
Malta. Those towns, each with a dedicated chapter, are Mdina, Dingli, Għargħur, Mellieħa, Mġarr, Mosta, Naxxar, Pembroke,
Rabat, St. Paul’s Bay, Swieqi, and Mtarfa.
Fenech,
deeply aware of the enormous changes these charming towns have experienced in
his lifetime, aims to preserve disappearing aspects of Maltese culture for
posterity. He succeeds prodigiously by introducing each chapter with fascinating
detail about the region’s unique history, folklore, and commerce, and by asking
the right questions of his interview subjects, steering clear of reducing them to
sentimental caricatures. He skillfully balances their nostalgic introspection
with their generally positive and realistic outlook on the island’s present and
future. Each interviewee offers a particular perspective that complements
Fenech’s well-researched narrative. Indeed, all of them serve as witnesses to the
century past and present, bridging contemporary Maltese values with their descendants’
cultural mores.
Readers
can enjoy the book in any of the three ways Fenech has weaved throughout the
chapters. First, the narrative section unveils distinctive topographical, agricultural,
and architectural features of the towns, going back centuries wherever historical
context best explains their current situation. Next, the eyewitnesses to
Maltese history establish a down-home flavor so singularly regional in content yet
universal in spirit. Finally, the radiant 160-plus full-color photos scattered
throughout the book, more than three-fourths taken by the author, constitute a standalone
photo essay full of satisfying surprises. Those pictures can be enjoyed two
ways: as an appetizing prelude to the rich storytelling contained around them, or
as a review of the abundant information that was read, as this book will surely
be picked up many times after a first reading.
Fenech
brings all his powers to bear as an imaginative writer, journalist, historian, geologist,
ethnographer, ornithologist, interviewer, documentarian, environmentalist, professor,
and photographer extraordinaire. His first book, Fatal
Flight: The Maltese Obsession with Killing Birds (1992) showed his
commitment to striking a national balance between the Maltese pastime of bird
hunting and preserving wildlife. His Richard
Ellis: The Photography Collection, Volume 1 – Valletta and Floriana
(2007) illustrated his appreciation of an artist’s profound contribution to Maltese
photojournalism, and it earned Fenech his first Malta National Book Award. A
Complete Guide to Birds of Malta (2010) is Fenech’s beautifully
illustrated encyclopedic compendium of all birds that are permanent residents
of the island or resting on their perennial journey to three continents. It won
him his second Malta National Book Award and affirmed his reputation as the
John Audubon of Malta. His range in Colours of the North exudes not only
his passions but his insightful vantage points, making his latest work a veritable
page-turner.
As
a bonus, an introductory chapter by Ray Cachia Zammit and Jane Caruana covers
the Victoria Lines, Malta’s seven-mile Great Wall built as fortifications from
encroachers by the British when Malta was a crown colony.
Having
visited Malta 9 times over 55 years, I have seen much change in the island.
Fenech reminds us that some small Maltese wonders have not and others that soon
will, leaving one with a sense of gratitude that he has documented them all. Even
lifelong residents of Malta will find numerous pleasures in Colours of the
North.